Horticulture Tips for June 16, 2008

 By Wayne Wells, Lelia Kelly, David Nagel

 

Pre Stress Conditioning for a Healthy Summer Lawn

 

 

Drought stress can predispose our turf for other problems such as insect and disease attack as well as the encroachment of weeds. Since the weather is constantly changing and we never know for sure if we will get adequate rainfall we need to irrigate with a long-range purpose in mind.  We can help our lawns tremendously as the summer heat intensifies by beginning pre-stress conditioning now.  Pre stress conditioning is accomplished by watering less frequently but very thorough when we do water.  A good thorough deep watering allows the water to infiltrate down three or more inches into the soil to encourage grass roots to go deep into the soil and become more numerous.  Later in the summer as water becomes even more critical those lawns with a deep, large mass root system will be better prepared to forage much deeper for any available moisture. To help prevent an ideal environment for foliar diseases begin watering early enough in the day so that watering can be completed in time for leaf blades to dry before nightfall.

 

 

Trees and Shrubs

 

Remove any dead wood or weak branches on crepe myrtles so new growth will be vigorous and show good form.  Cut back fast growing shrubs, such as eleagnus, ligustrum, and photinia, as needed.  Prune spring-flowering shrubs after their blooms have faded or they need to be reshaped or to have an errant branch removed.

 

Avoid Stress

 

Avoid fertilizing or spraying during extreme heat or drought.  When plants are under stress, the leaves may be damaged. Water well the day before spraying, and apply pesticides only when temperatures do not exceed 90 degrees.

 

 Azaleas

 

Feed plants with an acid-forming fertilizer, such as 11-5-5; the same product can also be used on camellias, gardenias and blueberries.  Apply as directed on the label.  If the leaves are yellow with green veins, apply iron chelate, or treat the surrounding soil with aluminum sulfate.

 

 

 

Cutting Garden

 

Roses, annuals, and perennials need a boost after the first round of flowering.  Apply a cup of granular fertilizer (5-10-10) per 5 x 5 foot square area or water every two weeks with a soluble fertilizer until new vigorous growth is apparent.

 

 

The recent salmonella incident with tomatoes and rice "shortage" have persuaded many people to grow their own food. There are many things that have to come together in order for folks to produce their own food. The only thing people must have is a location that is in the sunlight for at least half the day. Poorly drained soil, infertile soil, lack of space, and most other obstacles can be overcome, but no fruit or vegetable can produce without sunlight. Other things important are water, labor, and inputs of nutrients, pest control, and time.

 

Gardeners double cropping on their black plastic mulch should be aware that temperatures under the mulch can be high enough to damage transplants. It would be wise to dilute white latex paint and apply it to the mulch after removing the first planting. The white paint will reflect some of the sun's rays and keep temperatures under the mulch from climbing to dangerous levels.

 

Folks who want to grow their own ornamental corn for fall decorating need to have the seeds in the ground by July 1. Most of these corns are ninety to over one hundred day varieties. Remember that corn ear worm populations grow as the year progresses, so some form of control will need to be done to produce picture perfect ears for those fall gatherings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Tracy Boyd
Office Associate
MSU Extension Service
Harrison County
Office
2315 17th St.
Gulfport, MS  39501
Phone (228) 865-4227
Fax       (228) 868-1470